{"product_id":"ceramic-bearing-t47-internal-bottom-bracket-86mm-sram-dub-29mm-for-road-road-wide","title":"Ceramic Bearing T47 Internal Bottom Bracket — 86mm, DUB (29mm), For Road \u0026 Road-Wide","description":"\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .bb-pdp { font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; }\n  .bb-pdp h4 { font-size: 16px; font-weight: 700; margin: 28px 0 8px; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; padding-bottom: 4px; }\n  .bb-pdp p { margin: 0 0 12px; }\n  .bb-pdp ul { margin: 0 0 12px; padding-left: 22px; }\n  .bb-pdp li { margin-bottom: 5px; }\n  .bb-pdp a { color: #0055cc; }\n  .bb-pdp .note { font-style: italic; font-size: 13px; color: #555; }\n  .bb-divider { border: none; border-top: 1px solid #e5e5e5; margin: 32px 0; }\n  .bb-grid { display: flex !important; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 12px; align-items: stretch; margin: 12px 0 20px; }\n  .bb-card { flex: 1 1 250px; min-width: 230px; box-sizing: border-box; border: 1px solid #ddd; border-radius: 10px; padding: 14px 16px; }\n  .bb-card strong { display: block; font-size: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; }\n  .bb-card ul { margin: 6px 0 0; padding-left: 18px; font-size: 13px; color: #444; }\n  .bb-callout { border-left: 3px solid #111; padding: 14px 20px; margin: 20px 0; background: #fafafa; font-size: 13px; color: #444; line-height: 1.6; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"bb-pdp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThreaded. Serviceable. Quiet. Now with ceramic bearings.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA T47 bottom bracket for frames with an 86mm threaded shell, built around SRAM's DUB 29mm spindle standard. Internal ceramic bearings, aluminum alloy construction, with the full spacer kit for both Road and Road Wide chainlines in the box.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr class=\"bb-divider\"\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat ceramic bearings actually do\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCeramic balls are harder, rounder, and lighter than steel balls, and those three properties do different things.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRounder means less friction.\u003c\/strong\u003e Steel balls are ground to a tolerance; ceramic balls can be manufactured to a tighter sphericity and a smoother surface finish. Less deviation from a perfect sphere means less energy lost as the ball rolls through the race.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHarder means less deformation.\u003c\/strong\u003e Under pedaling load, a steel ball flattens slightly at its contact point. Ceramic resists that deformation, so the contact patch stays smaller and the bearing keeps spinning freely under the loads that matter — out of the saddle, in a sprint, grinding up a climb.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighter means less inertia,\u003c\/strong\u003e though on a bottom bracket that's a rounding error compared to the other two.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBeing honest about the magnitude:\u003c\/strong\u003e the measurable power savings from ceramic bearings is small — single-digit watts at most, and often less than that. Anyone selling you more than that is selling. What you will notice, immediately and every ride, is how the cranks feel when you spin them: smoother, freer, and quieter than a steel bearing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe stronger argument is longevity. A harder ball wears its race more slowly, and a smoother surface gives contamination less to grab onto. Keep the seals intact and a ceramic bearing outlasts a steel one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr class=\"bb-divider\"\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy T47 threaded beats press-fit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePress-fit bottom brackets are pressed into the frame with an interference fit. When that fit is even slightly off — from manufacturing tolerance, from a frame that's flexed, from a cup that's worked loose over a season — you get creaking. And press-fit creak is famously hard to chase, because the noise travels and the fix usually means pulling the whole thing back out with a press.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT47 threads in. A threaded interface doesn't rely on tolerance to stay put; it relies on threads, which either engage or don't. Quieter, better aligned, and longer-lived because the bearings aren't being subtly distorted by an imperfect press.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt's also the standard you can service yourself.\u003c\/strong\u003e Threaded cups install and remove with a standard bottom bracket tool. No press, no drift, no shop visit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat matters more on a ceramic bottom bracket than a steel one: you're spending more, so being able to keep it clean and properly preloaded yourself is what protects the investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr class=\"bb-divider\"\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment — three things have to match\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"bb-grid\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"bb-card\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e1. Your frame shell\u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eT47 threaded\u003c\/strong\u003e, 47mm inner diameter\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e86mm wide\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot compatible with BSA, PF86, BB86, BB30, or PF30 shells\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"bb-card\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e2. Your crank spindle\u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSRAM DUB, 29mm\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot compatible with 24mm (Shimano, GXP) or 30mm spindles\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWorks with DUB and DUB Wide cranks\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"bb-card\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e3. Your chainline\u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRoad: 45mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRoad Wide: 47.5mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpacers for both are included\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"note\"\u003eIf you're unsure about your shell standard, measure the width of your bottom bracket shell and look for threads inside it. A T47 shell is visibly larger than a BSA shell and has threads all the way through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr class=\"bb-divider\"\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eRoad and Road Wide, both covered\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSRAM's road cranks come in two chainlines, and which one you have determines how the bottom bracket gets spaced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStandard Road — 45mm chainline.\u003c\/strong\u003e The setup on most road bikes and shorter-chainstay all-road frames. Uses the 1mm, 2mm, and\/or 3mm spacers.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRoad Wide — 47.5mm chainline.\u003c\/strong\u003e The wider setup for gravel frames with longer chainstays and bigger tire clearance. Uses the 2.5mm and 5.5mm spacers.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll five spacers ship in the box, so you can run either configuration and change your mind later if you swap cranksets.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"bb-callout\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWhich do you have?\u003c\/strong\u003e If your crank is a Wide or XPLR model, or your frame's spec sheet calls for a 47.5mm chainline, you want the Road Wide spacing. Otherwise you're on standard Road. Follow SRAM's spacing chart for your specific crankset rather than guessing — chainline directly affects shift quality and chain wear.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003chr class=\"bb-divider\"\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eInternal bearing design\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe bearings sit inboard, inside the shell, rather than hanging outboard of it. On an 86mm shell that's the right arrangement — a wider bearing stance supports the spindle better without adding width at the cranks, so Q-factor stays where the frame designer intended.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSealed cartridge construction keeps water and grit out, which is what determines how long any bearing lasts, ceramic or not.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr class=\"bb-divider\"\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eSpecifications\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStandard:\u003c\/strong\u003e T47 threaded\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eShell inner diameter:\u003c\/strong\u003e 47mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eShell width:\u003c\/strong\u003e 86mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSpindle compatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e SRAM DUB, 29mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBearing type:\u003c\/strong\u003e Internal ceramic, sealed cartridge\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Aluminum alloy with composite internals\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eChainline:\u003c\/strong\u003e Road (45mm) and Road Wide (47.5mm)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSpacers included:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1mm, 2mm, 3mm (Road) · 2.5mm, 5.5mm (Road Wide)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eColor:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr class=\"bb-divider\"\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eInstallation\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou'll need a bottom bracket tool that matches the cup interface and a torque wrench. Grease the frame threads before installation — the single most effective thing you can do to prevent creaking and to make removal possible in two years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote the thread direction.\u003c\/strong\u003e Like most threaded bottom brackets, the drive side is reverse-threaded. Turning it the wrong way with force is how threads get damaged.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSet your spacers before final torque, following SRAM's spacing chart for your crankset and chainline. Then set the crank's preload collar properly — not so tight that there's drag, not so loose that there's play.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePreload matters more here than on a steel bearing. Over-tightening a ceramic bearing loads the balls against the races harder than they're designed for, which trades away the low friction you paid for and shortens the bearing's life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr class=\"bb-divider\"\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCare\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the seals intact and don't aim a pressure washer at the bottom bracket shell. Ceramic balls are harder than the races they run in, so if grit does get past the seals it can score the races faster than a steel ball would.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKept clean, this is a bearing that outlasts steel. Neglected, it doesn't — the seals are what you're really protecting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"State Bicycle Co.","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44261928337495,"sku":"751503808654","price":53.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0232\/3305\/files\/T47BottomBracket_86mm_DUB_29mm_InternalBearing-ForRoad_Road-Wide.png?v=1788994317","url":"https:\/\/www.statebicycle.com\/en-gb\/products\/ceramic-bearing-t47-internal-bottom-bracket-86mm-sram-dub-29mm-for-road-road-wide","provider":"State Bicycle Co.","version":"1.0","type":"link"}