X-Range gearing, direct-mount rings, and over 50 grams cut from the last generation. With or without power.

SRAM's most refined aluminum road crankset. The arms are shaped to put material only where load actually goes, the 48/35T rings are integrated as a direct-mount unit rather than bolted on, and the whole assembly runs a DUB spindle for a simpler, more durable bottom bracket interface.

Available in 165mm and 170mm arm lengths, standard or with an integrated spindle-based power meter.

Standard or power?

Mechanically these are the same crankset. Same arms, same 48/35T X-Range rings, same DUB spindle, same chainline, same shifting. The power version adds a strain gauge inside the spindle and weighs under 40g more.

Go standard if you already run a pedal-based power meter, you train by feel or heart rate, or you're building to a budget and power isn't the priority.

Go power if you're training with structure, riding indoors on a smart setup you want to cross-reference, or planning to add power eventually. Buying it now is a modest step up from the standard crank. Adding it later means buying a second crankset — or a pedal system that costs considerably more than the upgrade.

That gap is the whole argument. A standalone power meter typically costs more than the difference between these two, and this one adds no extra component to charge, install, or move between bikes.

How the power meter works

The strain gauge lives in the spindle rather than in the chainrings, pedals, or crank arm. That location keeps it protected from crash damage and rock strikes, and it means the measurement doesn't change when you swap chainrings.

It measures your left leg and doubles it. This is a single-sided system — it reads left-side force and calculates total output from it. Worth understanding before you buy:

• For training, it works. Structured training depends on consistency, not laboratory accuracy. The same meter reading the same leg the same way, ride after ride, gives you intervals, zones, and progression you can actually train against.
• It won't show leg imbalance, because it can only see one leg. If you're rehabbing an injury or specifically chasing L/R balance data, you want a dual-sided system.
• If you have a significant imbalance, your total number will skew in whichever direction your left leg differs. It'll still be consistent — just offset. Most riders' imbalance is small enough not to matter for training purposes.

Battery and durability

• 400+ hours per battery. That's a full season for most riders — ten hours a week gets you through most of a year.
• User-replaceable AAA lithium battery. No charging cable, no dock, no proprietary cell. Use a lithium AAA, not alkaline — alkaline cells drop voltage differently and give you unreliable readings and short life.
• IPX7 rated — submersible to one meter for 30 minutes. Rain, road spray, and wash-downs are a non-issue.
• Under 40g added over the standard crankset.

It broadcasts on ANT+ and Bluetooth, so it pairs with essentially any head unit, watch, or training app.

Why 48/35 instead of 50/34

If you're coming off a traditional compact crank, these numbers look small. They aren't — they're part of a different system.

Traditional road gearing pairs a 50/34 chainset with an 11-tooth small cog. X-Range pairs smaller rings with a 10-tooth small cog on the cassette. A 48T ring over a 10T cog gives you a higher top gear than 50 over 11. You give up nothing at the top end.

What you gain is the jump between rings. A 50/34 asks you to swallow a 16-tooth change every time you shift the front. This is a 13-tooth jump, which means less cadence disruption, fewer compensating rear shifts, and a smoother progression through the range.

Important: this only works with an X-Range cassette that has a 10T small cog. Running these rings against a conventional 11-speed or 11-tooth cassette gives up real top-end speed.

Crank length — 165 or 170

Shorter cranks have quietly taken over road and gravel fitting, and for good reason. A shorter arm opens your hip angle at the top of the pedal stroke, which makes a low, aero position sustainable for longer and takes strain off the front of the hip. It also raises pedal clearance, which matters on gravel and in crits.

Power loss from going shorter is negligible for almost everyone — riders self-select cadence to compensate within a few rides.

• 165mm — riders under roughly 5'8", anyone chasing a lower front end, anyone with hip impingement or tight hip flexors, criterium and gravel riders wanting clearance
• 170mm — the general-purpose length for most riders 5'8" and up, and the safe pick if you're currently on 172.5 and unsure

Going shorter raises your effective saddle height. If you drop from 172.5 to 170, raise your saddle 2.5mm. From 175 to 165, raise it 10mm. Get that wrong and the new cranks will feel worse than the old ones for reasons that have nothing to do with the cranks.

DUB

DUB is SRAM's spindle and bearing standard. One spindle diameter works across every frame's bottom bracket shell — you change the bottom bracket to match your frame, not the crank. Larger bearings than the standards it replaced, which means longer bearing life and a stiffer interface.

Practically: this crank fits any frame, as long as you buy the correct DUB bottom bracket for your shell.

You will need a SRAM Flattop chain

This is the mistake that costs people a weekend, so it's worth being blunt about.

SRAM's 12-speed road drivetrains use Flattop chains, which are a different design from standard 12-speed chains. A Shimano 12-speed chain will not work. A SRAM Eagle chain will not work. A generic 12-speed chain will not work.

Compatible chains: SRAM Road Flattop D1, Road Flattop E1, or T-Type. Nothing else.

What you'll still need

• DUB bottom bracket matched to your frame's shell standard — BSA threaded, T47, PressFit 30, BB86, and so on. Not included.
• SRAM Flattop chain — Road Flattop D1, E1, or T-Type
• X-Range cassette with a 10T small cog to get the full benefit of this gearing
• AXS front and rear derailleurs for a complete 2x build
• Power version: one AAA lithium battery, included

If you don't know your bottom bracket standard, measure your shell width and note whether it's threaded or press fit before ordering. Guessing here is expensive.

Fitment

• Drivetrain: 12-speed, 2x
• Spindle: DUB — compatible with all SRAM Road DUB bottom brackets
• Chainline: 45.0mm
• Chainring mount: Direct Mount, 8-bolt
• Chainring offset: 0mm
• Front derailleur: SRAM Road-Yaw
• Chain: SRAM Road Flattop D1, Road Flattop E1, or T-Type only

Running an XPLR rear derailleur? The power meter version is compatible with XPLR derailleurs only on frames with chainstays 414mm or shorter. Measure before you order — most road frames clear this easily, but longer-chainstay gravel frames may not.

Specifications

• Models: FC-RIV-E1 (standard) / FC-RIV-P-E1 (power meter)
• Part numbers, standard: 00.6118.734.007 (165mm) & 00.6118.734.009 (170mm)
• Part numbers, power meter: 00.6118.735.007 (165mm) & 00.6118.735.009 (170mm)
• Chainrings: 48/35T, integrated direct mount
• Chainring material: Aluminum
• Crank arm length: 165mm or 170mm
• Speeds: 12
• Configuration: 2x
• Front tooth jump: 13
• Spindle interface: DUB
• Chainline: 45.0mm
• BCD: Direct Mount (DM 8-bolt)
• Type: Road

Power meter version, additional specs:

• Measurement: Spindle-based, left-side, doubled for total
• Battery: AAA lithium, user replaceable
• Battery life: 400+ hours
• Water resistance: IPX7 — 1 meter for 30 minutes
• Added weight: Under 40g vs standard crankset
• Transmission: ANT+ and Bluetooth

Installation

Straightforward if you have the right tools: a DUB bottom bracket tool, a torque wrench, and the correct preload adjustment. The spindle preload collar is not optional — set it properly or you'll have either drag or play, and both will eat bearings.

On the power version, calibrate after installation and again whenever you change the battery or move the crank to a different bike. It takes about thirty seconds from your head unit or the AXS app.

Full installation documentation and torque values are available in SRAM's service hub — standard or power meter.

OE product information

Not intended for retail sale. This is original-equipment product supplied for dealer service, warranty replacement, and complete-bike build applications.

OE product is the same component that ships on complete bikes — identical specification, identical performance. What differs is how it's supplied:

• Plain bulk or poly packaging rather than a retail box
• No printed manuals or quick-start guides — all documentation is available free from SRAM's service hub, linked above
• No retail hang tags or display materials
• Small-parts and hardware content may differ from the retail pack
• Components may show minor handling marks from bulk packing

Warranty. SRAM's consumer warranty program does not apply to original-equipment components. Warranty and defect claims on this item are administered by State Bicycle Co. Contact our support team with your order number. Crash damage, wear items, and installation damage are not covered.

Original equipment service item. Supplied in OE packaging for dealer service, warranty replacement, and complete-bike build applications; not a retail-packaged consumer product and not intended for retail sale. SRAM consumer warranty does not apply to original-equipment components — warranty administration on this item is provided by State Bicycle Co. Professional installation recommended. Power measurement is single-sided; total output is calculated from left-side data. SRAM, Rival, AXS, DUB, X-Range, Flattop, XPLR, and T-Type are trademarks of SRAM LLC. State Bicycle Co. is not affiliated with or endorsed by SRAM LLC. Specifications subject to change without notice.