Picked these GRT55 Carbon wheels up a couple of weeks ago, have about 250 miles on them so far. Really impressed with them right out of the box, nice and true, proper tension on the spokes and good quality finish on the carbon wheel itself. The sealed bearings are super smooth, just as smooth as my $2200 wheels that I have on my Tarmac SL7. So far really happy with the purchase.
I was looking for a set of 45mm - 60mm carbon wheels that I could run tubeless, but also had a front brake track, and didn’t cost over $1k. Pretty much nothing out there, so these GRT55’s were just what I needed. I ride about 250 miles a week, and have been running tubeless on my road bikes for over 7 years, and before anyone says tubeless sucks, let explain to you why I’m a believer.
I have roughly 75k miles on tubeless, that’s right 75,000 miles on tubeless, so I think that would make me a bit of an expert, ;-) LOL.
In all that time, I have only had to call someone to pick me up twice, once because the rim strip area failed, and the second time because I didn’t have enough sealant in the tire (my fault because I hadn’t checked it when I was suppose too) Every other puncture has sealed or I was able to plug it with a Stans D.A.R.T.
So with that said, tubeless isn’t for everyone, but if you are patient at setting them up and diligent about maintaining them, they will give you miles of flat free riding.

This is how I set these up: Muc-Off 80mm tubeless valves, Stans 25mm tubeless tape (2 wraps) 30mL of Orange Seal Endurance. Tires, had these laying around, but just ordered some Michelin Power cup in 700/25 (They measure 28mm when installed on these wheels)
What I carry on the bike to repair if. Needed: 3 - 16gm Co2’s, 3 - Stans Dart plugs and tool. Very small 10mL of sealant. I don’t carry tubes, I’ve never had to unmount a tire in order to repair it.

Some tips if you are considering tubeless setup:

Be patient mounting them, I’ve got pretty good at it, but can be messy, you may need soap, but usually not, you definitely need a compressor or Co2 cartridge to seat the tire. They will loose air the first couple of days until the sealant gets in all the cracks and crevices of the bead, etc. You may need to add an additional 10ml of sealant after they have settled. Wider tires with more air volume work best, fat 25mm (Michelin) or 28mm in other brands. I’m 170lbs and run 85-90psi.
IMPORTANT - Set a reminder on your phone to check the sealant level every 30 days, I usually need to add about 10mL, especially when it’s hotter in the summer. Pull out the valve and use a dipstick (Orange seal has these)
If you do get a flat that doesn’t seal, it’s best to pull over and rotate the tire so the sealant can find it’s way to the hole. If it still doesn’t seal, use a plug. 
IMPORTANT: After plugging, do not fill the tire to maximum pressure just yet, it could force the plug out, fill to about 50psi, then ride for about 20min or so, then you can top it off. I carry at least 3 plugs with me because I’ve had them break off, so you want a few back ups.
Last one: If you are not riding your bike on a regular basis, maybe you go weeks without a ride, or more. I wouldn’t recommend tubeless. It’s best suited for someone that rides at least 3 or more times a week, otherwise the sealant will sit in the tire and could damage it, or even dry up.

If I find some time, maybe I’ll make a video and post a link later, I’ve got a lot of other little tips that can make the transition to tubeless easier.
I highly recommend this wheel set, and if you do decide to run them tubeless, remember the protocols, you got to stay up on it.